Mount Denali – 6190m (2023)

Climbing Mount Denali: Summit #4 of My Singaporean Seven Summits Expedition

Denali, formerly known as Mount McKinley, stands as North America’s tallest peak at 6,190 meters (20,310 feet) and is renowned for its formidable challenges. Climbers face extreme cold, unpredictable weather, and the necessity to carry heavy loads without the aid of porters, making the ascent particularly demanding.

The mountain’s difficulty is underscored by its fatality statistics. Denali has a fatality rate of approximately 9 deaths per 100 successful summits, placing it among the world’s most dangerous mountains. Since 1932, there have been 129 climbing-related deaths recorded in Denali National Park, reflecting the inherent risks associated with attempting to summit this peak.

One of the most tragic incidents occurred in July 1967, when a severe blizzard claimed the lives of seven climbers during their descent, marking the deadliest accident on Denali to date.

Despite these challenges, Denali continues to draw mountaineers from around the globe, symbolizing both the allure and peril of high-altitude climbing.

As part of my Singaporean Seven Summits journey, Denali was more than just a physical challenge. It was a test of mental grit, endurance, and deep motivation to represent my country on some of the world’s toughest mountains.

With extreme weather, heavy loads, and tough terrain, every step was a reminder of why I started this journey — to inspire others to dream big, climb high, and never stop believing.

Climbing Denali, the highest peak in North America at 6,190 metres (20,310 feet), is not for the faint of heart. It’s a climb that tests not only your physical strength but also your mental resilience, your patience, and your ability to work with a team through some of the harshest conditions imaginable. In 21 gruelling days, I experienced all of this firsthand on what remains one of the hardest and most painful expeditions I have ever undertaken. Just before Denali, I made a short 4 day acclimatisation trip to Mount Kinabalu and summitted the mountain for the 4th time, before flying to Talkeetna, Alaska.

Our team was a unique blend of individuals from across Europe and Asia: a close-knit family of three from Austria—Gernot, the experienced patriarch; Erich, his determined son; and Johanna, their fierce and focused daughter. Joining us were a mother-daughter duo from the Czech Republic—Julie and Lucie Vladarova, both strong, self-reliant, and impressively composed even under pressure. Together, the six of us formed a multinational team brought together by a single shared dream: to stand on the summit of Denali.

The expedition began in Talkeetna, Alaska, where we sorted gear, finalized our rations, and mentally prepared for the isolation of the mountain. From the moment our plane landed on the Kahiltna Glacier, the enormity of the challenge ahead sank in. Denali is not just a climb—it’s a brutal test of endurance. We each hauled 50 to 60 kilograms of gear and food in our sleds and backpacks. Every step forward felt like a battle against gravity, weather, and exhaustion.

The mountain greeted us with everything it had: bitter cold, high winds, altitude sickness, crevasse-laden terrain, and relentless uphill slogs. Camp by camp, we advanced—from Base Camp to Camp 1, up Ski Hill, through Motorcycle Hill, and past Windy Corner. Progress was slow, each movement deliberate and hard-earned. At times, the whiteout conditions reduced visibility to metres ahead, and communication between climbers became an exercise in lip-reading and body language.

The physical demands were intense, but the mental challenges were even greater. Being confined in tents for days during storms, enduring -30°C temperatures, and dealing with the psychological strain of delayed progress took a toll. There were mornings we woke up not knowing if it was safe to move. Some days we had to cache supplies, only to backtrack to retrieve them in a process known as “carry high, sleep low” to help acclimatise.

Yet in the midst of hardship, bonds were formed. We learned to read each other’s energy levels, moods, and limits. The Austrians brought a stoic and unbreakable spirit to the team, often lifting our morale with dry humour and quiet confidence. Julie and Lucie, though relatively new to high-altitude climbing, showed impressive fortitude and emotional strength.

Summit day was, in a word, brutal. We set off in the early hours at around 9am, ascending from High Camp under a clear but freezing sky. The climb up Denali Pass, across the exposed ridge, and onto the summit plateau felt endless. Every breath was a gasp. Every step a mental negotiation between pain and purpose. But when we finally stood atop Denali, we were overcome with awe and relief. The sweeping views of Alaska stretched endlessly in every direction, and for a brief moment, the pain faded.

The descent was no less punishing. Fatigue set in, knees ached, and sled control on steep slopes became a game of survival. But together, we returned to Base Camp, exhausted but intact, forever bonded by what we had endured. We took about 19 hours to reach the summit and come back down.

Climbing Denali isn’t just about reaching the summit. It’s about showing up for each other when things get tough. It’s about sharing a tent in a blizzard, melting snow for water at midnight, and pulling each other’s sleds when someone hits the wall. It’s about becoming a team.

For me, Denali wasn’t just a mountain—it was a crucible. A place where I met five remarkable people and pushed myself to the edge. It was cold. It was painful. It was long. But it was unforgettable.

And I would NEVER do it all again.

Published by jeremytongclimbs

I'm an aspiring climber from the tiny island of Singapore looking to climb the highest peaks of the world!

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